Survivalist Pro
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A general rule of thumb to shock chlorinate and disinfect a storage tank is to mix non-scented NSF-approved household bleach (5.25% chlorine) in the reservoir at the ratio of 1 gallon of bleach for every 1,000 gallons of water (i.e., 1 quart for every 250 gallons of water).
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Read More »Chlorine is an effective and low-cost chemical for disinfecting water storage tanks. We are often asked:
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Read More »Drain and flush tank if using these higher levels of chlorine. Don’t put water with chlorine residual into drains leading to septic tanks, and avoid discharge into creeks, rivers, or lakes. Be careful if you have a steel storage tank, as corrosion may have occurred over time, and once the tank is cleaned it may develop leaks. A general rule of thumb to shock chlorinate and disinfect a storage tank is to mix non-scented NSF-approved household bleach (5.25% chlorine) in the reservoir at the ratio of 1 gallon of bleach for every 1,000 gallons of water (i.e., 1 quart for every 250 gallons of water). This will give a chlorine concentration of 50 ppm, far higher than the 0.5 to 2.0 PPM found in treated city water, and make the water unusable for potable water use until residual drops down to less than 4.0 PPM. For storage tanks or cisterns fed by well water: Add bleach directly to the storage tank at the same time, you are disinfecting the well. Let the storage tank drain into the distribution system. After sitting for 12 to 24 hours, drain the storage tank through a drain valve or through the distribution system. Do not dispose of chlorinated water into a septic tank or on vegetation or into surface water. If you cannot find NSF-certified chlorine bleach use NSF-certified chlorine pellets or powder.
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Read More »You can tell if you have added sufficient chlorine to your tank because you can measure the chlorine levels. You can know when the chlorine has dropped to safe levels (less than 4.0 PPM) if you need to use the water in the home. There are two main types of chlorine test kits for easy home use, and they are liquid drop types (which use reagents that you drop into a test tube) and test strips. A common low-range chlorine test kit uses Orthotolidine which turns yellow if chlorine is present so it is easy to use. Test strips are easier to use but for low range, the reagent type may work better in our experience. You also may want a High Range Kit if you are “shock chlorinating” the tank with high levels of chlorine over 5 PPM. A low range kit allows you to check for chlorine levels if you are adding chlorine to maintain a low level residual, or you want to know when it is safe to use the water.
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